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美媒:没有继承人?对中餐馆老板来说,意味着成功

No Successors? For Chinese Restaurant Owners, That's a Success

没有继承人?对中国餐馆老板来说,意味着成功

KINGSTON, N.Y. — More than 40 years after buying Eng’s, a Chinese American restaurant in the Hudson Valley, Tom Sit is reluctantly considering retirement.

纽约金斯顿—在买下哈德逊谷餐厅Eng 's 40多年后,美籍华人餐厅老板汤姆·西特终于不情愿地考虑退休了。

For much of his life, Sit has worked here seven days a week, 12 hours a day. He cooks in the same kitchen where he worked as a young immigrant from China. He parks in the same lot where he’d take breaks and read his wife’s letters, sent from Montreal while they courted by post in the late 1970s. He seats his regulars at the same tables where his three daughters did homework.

在他这辈子的大部分时间里,西特每周工作7天,每天工作12个小时。他年轻时从中国移民到美国,就在这个厨房里做饭。他把车停在同一个休息的地方,读他妻子从蒙特利尔寄来的信件,他们从20世纪70年代末起就通过信件互诉衷情。他让常客们坐在他的三个女儿做作业的那张桌子旁。

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Two years ago, at the insistence of his wife, Faye Lee Sit, he started taking off one day a week. Still, it’s not sustainable. He’s 76, and they’re going to be grandparents soon. Working 80 hours a week is just too hard. But his grown daughters, who have college degrees and well-paying jobs, don’t intend to take over.

两年前,在妻子李菲的坚持下,他开始每周休假一天。但还是无力维系。他已经76岁了,他和妻子很快就要当爷爷奶奶了。每周工作80个小时对他们来说太辛苦了。但是他几个长大成人的女儿们,都有大学学位和高薪工作,并不打算接手父亲的餐馆。

Across the country, owners of Chinese American restaurants like Eng’s are ready to retire but have no one to pass the business to. Their children, educated and raised in America, are pursuing professional careers that do not demand the same grueling labor as food service.

在美国各地,像Eng 's这样的美籍华人餐馆的老板都准备退休了,但找不到人接手。他们的孩子在美国接受教育、成长,他们对餐饮服务行业这样辛苦的行业并不感兴趣。

According to new data from the restaurant reviewing website Yelp, the share of Chinese restaurants in the top 20 metropolitan areas has been consistently falling. Five years ago, an average of 7.3% of all restaurants in these areas were Chinese, compared with 6.5% today. That reflects 1,200 fewer Chinese restaurants at a time when these 20 places added more than 15,000 restaurants overall.

根据餐馆点评网站Yelp的最新数据,中国餐馆在前20大城市的份额一直在下降。五年前,这些地区平均有7.3%的餐馆是中国餐馆,而现在这一比例仅为6.5%。这反映出,在这20个城市新增1.5万家餐厅的同时,中餐馆却减少了1200家。

Even in San Francisco, home to the oldest Chinatown in the United States, the share of Chinese restaurants shrank to 8.8% from 10%.

即便是在美国历史最悠久的唐人街所在地旧金山,中餐馆的比例也从10%下降到了8.8%。

It doesn’t seem that interest in the cuisine has faltered. On Yelp, the average share of page views of Chinese restaurants hasn’t declined, nor has the average rating.

人们对中餐的热情并没有减退。在Yelp上,中国餐馆的平均浏览量并没有下降,平均评级也没有下降。

And at the same time, the percentages of Indian, Korean and Vietnamese restaurants — many of which were also owned and operated by immigrants from Asian countries — are holding steady or increasing nationwide.

与此同时,印度、韩国和越南餐馆的比例——其中许多餐馆也是由亚洲国家移民拥有和经营的——在全国范围内保持稳定或上升。

The restaurant business has always been tough, and rising rents and delivery apps haven’t helped. Tightening regulations on immigration and accounting have also made it harder for cash-based restaurants to do business.

餐饮业一直都很艰难,不断上涨的租金和送餐程序都帮不上忙。对移民和会计的严格规定也使得现金交易为主的餐馆更难开展业务。

But those are not Chinese-restaurant-specific factors, and do not explain the wave of closings. Instead, a big reason seems to be the economic mobility of the second generation.

但这些原因并非针对中国餐馆,也无法解释餐馆关闭浪潮的原因。相反,一个重要的原因似乎是第二代人的经济流动性提高了。

“It’s a success that these restaurants are closing,” said Jennifer 8. Lee, a former New York Times journalist who wrote of the rise of Chinese restaurants in her book “The Fortune Cookie Chronicles” and produced a documentary, “The Search for General Tso.” “These people came to cook so their children wouldn’t have to, and now their children don’t have to.”

“这些餐馆的关闭是一种成功,”珍妮弗说。李曾是《纽约时报》的记者,她在《幸运饼干编年史》一书中记录了中国餐馆的崛起,并制作了一部纪录片《寻找左宗棠鸡》。“这些人来美国从事餐饮业,这样他们的孩子就不用这么做了,现在他们的孩子没有这个迫切必要了。”

“In some ways, the children are regaining the status of the first generation that they have lost while migrating,” said Jennifer Lee, a professor of sociology at Columbia University and co-author of “The Asian American Achievement Paradox.” (She is not related to Jennifer 8. Lee.) “The goal has never been to continue those businesses.”

哥伦比亚大学社会学教授、《亚裔美国人成就悖论》的合著者珍妮弗·李说,“在某些方面,这些孩子正在恢复他们在移民过程中失去的第一代的地位。”(她和詹妮弗没有血缘关系。“我们的目标从来都不是继续从事这些行当。”

When they do become entrepreneurs, these children tend to work in industries like tech or consulting, rather than in food service or nail salons.

当他们成为企业家后,这些孩子往往会进入科技或咨询等行业工作,而非食品服务或美甲沙龙。

In the past decade, some members of the second generation have also chosen to take charge of family restaurants. Nom Wah Tea Parlor, a New York dim sum restaurant that opened in 1920, has stayed a family business: first run by the Choy family, then the Tangs.

在过去的十年里,一些第二代人也选择了管理家庭餐馆。1920年开业的纽约点心餐厅南华茶室一直是家族企业:先是蔡氏家族,然后是唐氏家族。

The owner, Wilson Tang, 41, left a career in finance to succeed his uncle in 2011. Initially, his parents balked at his move.

店主威尔逊·唐今年41岁,他放弃了金融业的职业生涯,于2011年接替了叔叔的职位。起初,他的父母对他的举动犹豫不决。

“As immigrants, it’s the only thing you can do; if it’s not restaurants, it’s a laundromat,” Tang said. “For me to choose to go back to owning a restaurant? That was tough for them to accept.”

“作为移民,这是你唯一能做的事;不是餐馆,就是自助洗衣店。让我回去开餐馆?这让他们很难接受。”

Since then, Nom Wah has expanded: to another Manhattan location, to Philadelphia and to Shenzhen, China. On any given night, groups of guests wait for a table outside the Chinatown location for up to an hour, huddled in the bend of Doyers Street.

从那时起,南华开始扩张:在曼哈顿开立一家分店,到费城,再到中国深圳。每天晚上,成群结队的客人都要在唐人街外,挤在多尔斯街的转弯处,等候一个小时。

In a parallel effort, the team behind Junzi Kitchen, a fast-casual Chinese restaurant chain based in New York, recently raised $5 million to research and buy places like Eng’s, rebranding them with Junzi’s modern take on the cuisine.

与此同时,总部位于纽约的休闲快餐连锁店“君子厨房”的团队最近筹集了500万美元,用于研究和购买像Eng 's这样的餐厅,并将它们重新打上“君子厨房”的现代品牌。

美国雅虎网站读者评论:

译文来源:三泰虎   http://www.santaihu.com/49077.html        译者:Joyceliu

外文链接:https://www.yahoo.com/news/no-successors-chinese-restaurant-owners-133447504.html

Jake

Arrived in US as a 18 year old, I worked 44 hours a week and 363 days a year at a Chinese restaurant while going to high school. As a 19 year old, I ran the restaurant for the summer when the owner and his family went to China. Those were the good old days.

我18岁来到美国,上高中的时候,我在中国餐馆每周工作44个小时,每年工作363天。19岁那年夏天,餐馆老板和家人去了中国,我负责经营这家餐馆。真是美好的旧时光啊。

 

judgealan

same thing happened in the midwest with Italian restaurants- the 1st 2 generations worked very hard - then in the 70s 80s the 3rd generation went to college and left the family businesses behind as not economically sufficient.

同样的事情也发生在中西部的意大利餐馆——前两代人工作非常努力——到了70、80年代,第三代人上了大学,离开了家庭企业,因为赚不了太多钱。

 

Fed Up

At least the children have the freedom to pursue careers that they will find fulfilling.

I hope owners can devise a way for their great cooking to be preserved and then make a fortune when they sell.

至少孩子们有追求他们自己事业的自由。

我希望餐厅老板们能设法整理保留他们的美味佳肴,然后在出售时大赚一笔。

 

D P

Sit is he won't know what to do with himself. It's not like he had free time to pick up other interests while working 12hr/7day and raising a family as a side activity. His kids are busy, his in-laws and the grand kids cannot relate. There's generational, linguistic, and cultural gaps with relatives.

他不知道自己该怎么做。他没办法工作12小时/7天,还有时间去做其他的事情。他的孩子们很忙,没办法和女婿、孙辈们相处。与亲人之间存在代际、语言和文化差异。

 

Edward

Chinese Americans have been a great asset to this country. I envy their culture.

美籍华人一直是这个国家的宝贵财富。我羡慕他们的文化。

 

devinyl

interesting how many racists chose to make comments.

Me, I am just sad that Authentic Immigrant Owned Chinese Restaurants are in decline.

I hope market dynamics somehow reverse this trend. I prefer family owned Chinese Restaurants to chain food.

有趣的是,有多少种族主义者在这里发表评论呢。

对我来说,我只是对正宗额中国移民开的中餐馆越来越少感到难过。

我希望市场动态能在某种程度上扭转这一趋势。我更喜欢家庭式中餐馆,而不是连锁餐馆。

 

J N

Chinese built the railroad that connect the American West to the East.

中国人修建了连接美国西部和东部的铁路。

 

mikey

I like the small family run places where the food is cooked in front of you and you can see their kid doing homework while they cook. The chain style buffet places have Asian people out front with Hispanics in the kitchen. Nothing wrong with hard work. Respect.

我喜欢家庭经营的小餐馆,食物就在你面前烹制,你可以看到他们的孩子在他们烹饪时一边做作业。连锁店式的自助餐厅里,服务员是亚洲人,厨师是西班牙人。努力工作没有错。我对此表示尊重。

 

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